The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

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episode 186: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol


Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we’re used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there’s actually a better way.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

Tyler’s ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

  • TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
  • TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
  • TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
  • TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
  • TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
  • TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
  • TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
  • TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
  • TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
  • TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
  Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • Why just climbing easy stuff isn’t the most effective way to warm up
  • How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard
  • How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers
  • The youth teams he’s tested this on have all had great results
  • How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing
  Tyler Nelson Links
  • Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
  • Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
  • Do a consultation with Tyler
  • Instagram: @c4hp
  • Facebook: @camp4chiropractic

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

  Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

  • At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
  • Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
  • For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
  • For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
  • Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
  • All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
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Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.


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 December 1, 2021  1h3m