History of the Papacy Podcast

Episode 117L The Fashion of Late Antiquity North and South

Description: Today we are joined by Giada Lattanzio who is a scholar of late Antiquity and early Medieval Byzantine history, with a specialty in the areas of art history and fashion. Giada will share with us some ideas of clothing, art depictions of clothing and fashion during the era we are discussing in this Celtic Christianity series. She will guide us through the development of liturgical clothing as well. I think you will very much enjoy this extra bit of context for the fascinating period of church and papal history!

About Today’s Guest:
Giada Lattanzio
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/author/giada_lattanzio/
Centre for Early Medieval Studies: https://earlymedievalstudies.com/EN/

A short biography of the costume and fashion in the Middle Ages:
- Alexandra Croom, Roman clothing and fashion, Stroud, Amberley, 2010
- Faith Pennick Morgan, Dress and Personal Ap

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Music Provided by:
"Danse Macabre" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Virtutes Instrumenti" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Crusades" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Funeral March for Brass" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"String Impromptu Number 1" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Intended Force" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Agnus Dei X - Bitter Suite Kevin MacLeaod (incomptech.com)
"Folk Round" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
"Celtic Impulse" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Image Credits:
By Ariely - Own work, CC BY 3.0, ttps://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4533576
By Pam Brophy, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9124089
By ACBahn - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33810833
By Alan Partridge, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=478777
By Roger Culos - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=44352375
Begin Transcript:
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•Today we are joined by Giada Lattanzio who is a scholar of late Antiquity and early Medieval Byzantine history, with a specialty in the areas of art history and fashion. Giada will share with us some ideas of clothing, art depictions of clothing and fashion during the era we are discussing in this Celtic Christianity series. She will guide us through the development of liturgical clothing as well. I think you will very much enjoy this extra bit of context for the fascinating period of church and papal history!
•With that, here is the next piece of the mosaic of the history of the Popes of Rome and Christian Church.
[00:00:00] Thank you. For joining us today. I'm really excited to talk about this really fascinating topic of fashion in history and in antiquity. I, I really appreciate you coming on to talk to us. Thank you. Thank you for inviting me to your podcast. I really appreciate it. No, um, Giada Laan. I was our guest today and she graduated in medieval and Byzantine history at.
KA for Scarry university in Venice, Italy, and during her master's degree, she did an internship at the center for, uh, early medieval studies in. Burn check Czech Republic for the journal con Vivian exchanges and interactions in the arts of medieval Europe, Byzantium, and the Mediterranean. And she is now starting her PhD as well.
And the Czech Republic, her research focuses on early medieval art, especially business Tina, but her interest include applied arts, fashion [00:01:00] history, and their inner connections with. Art now, just to, uh, briefly give the Genesis of this episode. I had a conversation with Dr. Carly McNamara in our series about the Irish and the CALS in Christianity.
And we had both recalled reading that the CALTS invented trousers and I contacted the. Dr. Justine de young, a professor of history at the fashion Institute of New York, who told me that in a very polite way. She said that's completely wrong, but she suggested I contact GI for more information on fashion and clothing during antiquity in the middle ages.
Now I thought maybe to started, how did you become interested in the history of fashion and art? Uh, well, from a young age, I was very interested in fashion and industry of costume. And I thought, I decide I've decided to focus my studies on artist three. I continue to [00:02:00] dedicate myself to the study of the costume of history of costume, and particularly on the medieval period.
So thanks to the fashion history timeline project. Uh, I work on, I've been able to let's say combine these two interests. So art and fashion. Yes. History of costume. What is maybe, uh, what is the area that you particularly focus on or maybe an area in your PhD studies you wanna focus in on particularly.
Uh, so as I've focused, my artistry studies on the early medieval period, uh, my knowledge mainly concerns the costume of this period. So from the end of the fourth century, until the 10th century, uh, Because for the later period, I've only analyzed the Byzantine Imperial costume between the 13th and 15th century.
And the areas of my concern are the regions, which were under the [00:03:00] Byzantine empire mostly. And. The Mediterranean more in general. What, um, can you tell us maybe some basic overview of what type of clothing did people wear during the early medieval period late antiquity? Uh, yes. So, um, firstly, I want to point out that I will especially talk about the Elita tire, but essentially.
So the Toga was a long piece of, of cloth, which was wrenched in falls and ripped over the shoulders and around the body. Uh, then the women wore the stole, which was a pleated dress, which was usually tight at the waist. Uh, so this garment were usually made of plain and dye fabric and commonly, they were made of all or linen.
Uh, as a man, there were, um, men and also women, the, [00:04:00] which was a kind of Cape used to cover the head in certain circumstances, uh, such as religious ceremonies, uh, this habit to use P the religious ceremonies was linked to the Roman world. So in the first centuries up to Christ, um, its use was Bann. And so.
The clergy, um, didn't want to use this pay gun. Let's say garment. Um, then the Roman costume became the model for the late antique and early medieval clothing. So thanks to figurative sources. Such as Dex, we can see that the Toga was used more or less until the fifth century. Uh, so it was slightly different from the one were in ticket.
Um, because this Toga had a wider B, which was the section hanging down the left side of the body. And which was again, pull out over the shoulder, uh, for example, [00:05:00] uh, at the Diptic of customs deferred, uh, which came from Rome and is dated to the 417, uh, the console is depicted on rectal. So in the front of the Diptic with the Tru fault Toga.
And on the verse song, uh Iwas uh, KLAS as atrician. So in this deep, we have the representation of the two outfits, uh, adopted by the elite, uh, during spiral, during the 15th century, the 15th century. Sorry. And, um, In the fourth century, uh, ACO Roman clock was adopt and it was constantly used in the following centuries.
And this was the CLA. So this was, um, an left clock, uh, usually pin by a bro or fi bla on the right shoulder. So this was the basic garment of the uniform worn by soldiers, I member of [00:06:00] the court and also civilian administration. Um, this uniform consists of this CLS over a tight sleeve to, with a belt. So because it was typically used by Roman soldiers or emperor, um, The climates became the most widely used garment to represent Imperial power, uh, this until the seventh century in the Byzantine empire and until at least the 10th century in the west.

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