The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

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TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods


 

About Tom Randall

Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. 

What We Talked About
  • His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
  • How he works with clients
  • Training for crack climbing
  • Pinky crack drills
  • Free soloing 3,000 routes
  • Case study of bouldering client
Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients Intro to "Jack Daniels"   Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.   --> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels Related Links
  • Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk
  • Tom Randall on Facebook
  • His coaching partner, Ollie
  • Tom Randall on Instagram
Training Programs for You
  • Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
  • Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Thanks for listening!


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 December 16, 2015  1h17m