Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes
Date: November 4th, 2015
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About Will Anglin
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.
He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).
What we talked about:- The importance of strength training
- Difference between strength and power
- His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks
- Whether or not you should train to exhaustion
- Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not
- Who should be campusing
- Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not
- Will's website
- Tension Climbing (coming soon)
- Will's article on finger strength training
- I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com
If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here. Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
Training Programs for You- Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
- Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
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Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.
Thanks for listening!