Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
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After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.
Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.
I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.
What We Talked About- Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
- Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
- What it was like for her to train with the Euros
- How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
- How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
- Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
- How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
- Alex's website is www.aj-ontherocks.blogspot.com
- Alex on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alexjohnsonclimber
- An article in Rock & Ice about Alex's negative experience training in Europe: "Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile"
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Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings
PhotoPortrait of Alex Johnson by Forest Woodward
Thanks for listening!