Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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episode 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way.
While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient.
The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that much other equipment. He made some mistakes along the way and suffered some consequences, and he’ll tell you all about what he learned in this episode.
I think anyone listening to this episode will learn a few things about proper training tactics, whether you have similar constraints or not.
Episode Details- What he did (and is doing) to train for his 5.14b project this summer
- What went wrong
- How he fit training in to 70+ hour work weeks
- Injuries/inflammation that occured
- How he’s dealing with those consequences now
- What he would’ve done differently
- What he learned as a coach from his own mistakes
- Do an hour coaching session with Matt
- Work with Matt as your coach
- Do Matt’s Bouldering Training Program
- Have topics you want us to cover? Email matt@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com
Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.
You’ll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.
TRAIN WITH MATT Please Review The Podcast on iTunesPlease give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.