Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
http://www.trainingbeta.com
Gesamtlänge aller Episoden: 11 days 17 hours 18 minutes
episode 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to...
episode 225: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that...
episode 224: Psychological Tools (that really work) for Climbers with Dr. Jen Dragonette
This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half!...
How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for...
episode 222: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae...
episode 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who...
episode 220: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but...
episode 219: TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up...
episode 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see...
Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who’s been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, , all about the topic, and I wanted to have him on the show to talk about the things he...