Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Gesamtlänge aller Episoden: 11 days 17 hours 18 minutes
episode 206: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on...
episode 205: TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our and has had some amazing success on it, so I wanted her to share her story with you all. Through using the...
episode 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that...
episode 203: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland,...
episode 202: TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and is sharing this...
episode 201: TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that’s affected his...
Coach Alex Stiger's 5.14a Training Plan for Herself
6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger’s 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training program built just for you. You’ll be getting to...
episode 199: TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you...
episode 197: TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50’s who is also the president of . She began climbing when she was 30 years old and soon realized...
episode 196: TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let’s be...